Wine Wise: Red wines for wild game
By John Breitlow

Here are some of my recent tasting notes on reds compatible with wild game. They are rated on the standard 100-point scale and have a “California” appellation if no other is listed.

Layer Cake 2007 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon: This may well be the richest, mellowest premium Cabernet I’ve ever tasted! It has long, lush and juicy ripe blackberry fruit, silky texture, subtle spices, a sprinkling of mocha and dark chocolate, plus an exotic, lingering finish, which its high-tech screwcap closure helps preserve — a delicious and aptly named aperitif, dinner and postprandial wine all in one bottle. 94

Sebastiani 2006 Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel: A full-bodied, full-flavored and impressive premium red dinner wine featuring lush raspberry and fresh cranberry fruit and a long spicy finish, with oak-aged hints of mocha and espresso; ideal with wild duck, goose, venison or moose meat. 92

Kendall-Jackson 2006 Estate-grown “Vintner’s Reserve” Syrah: An intense yet mellow and flavorful good-value in a big red dinner wine with concentrated blackcurrant and pomegranate fruit spiced by oak barrel aging; with smooth texture and a long memorable finish that ought go well with upland game birds and waterfowl. 90

Greg Norman Estates 2005 Red Hills Lake County Zinfandel: Intense, spicy, full-bodied red dinner wine with ample, distinctive cherry and wild berry fruit, hints of cinnamon; a fine premium value ideal with wild duck. 89

Sebastiani 2005 Sonoma Merlot: A fine premium-value in a mellow and gentle but full-bodied red dinner and preprandial wine, with ample black cherry and cranberry fruit and fragrances, smooth texture, nice balance and a gentle, lingering finish. 89

Woodbridge 2004 Lodi Fish Net Creek Old Vine Zinfandel: A remarkably tasty, good-value red Zin with lush berry fruit, subtle hints of oak, spice and vanilla, with a long finish; well-matched with big-game stews. 88

Dancing Bull 2006 Zinfandel: An impressive bargain from Gallo with lots of lush and spicy berry fruit, well-mannered tannins, and a hint of oak; a lively cocktail wine and a good general-purpose game wine. 87

Mirassou 2007 Pinot Noir: Excellent value in a clean and fresh, lively and fruity lighter-bodied red wine with lightly spicy black cherry and plum fruit, nice balance, a fragrant hint of roses in the bouquet; most compatible with venison and wild turkey or other upland game, from Gallo. 86

Red Bicyclette 2005 Vin de-Pays d’ Oc Syrah: Substantial medium-bodied red table wine with lively berry fruit, hints of oak, lots of texture, good balance; should go well with wild duck or venison. 85

John Breitlow is a retired Winona State University speech professor who began learning about good wine in the 1950s while serving in Vienna, Austria, with U.S. armed forces.

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